Gujarat has a very rich heritage of handicrafts. The handicrafts of Gujarat
are very unique. These handicrafts have been given a fillip by the government
and some private individuals. Craftsmen and women who left their villages
to work as stone crushers for the living have been brought back to practise
their traditional arts. Their products can be seen and purchased in emporiums
in Gujarat, Delhi and Mumbai. The excavations at the Harappan sites in Gujarat
at Lothal, Rangpur, Rozdi etc. have brought to light some of the very ancient
handicraft articles. Gujarat also has a rich tradition of embroidery, leather
work, bandhani and hand-block printing. Gujarat is also known for the famous
and unique Kutch embroidery.
Patola
The Patola of Patan is a unique fabric of Gujarat. This special variety
of women's wear is strikingly attractive with its colourful geometrical
patterns. This lovely silken fabric, which resembles a printed saree is
not an apparel printed by blocks. Its tie and weave method result in identical
patterns on both sides of the fabric, involving complicated designs, and
is entirely based on the geometry of the design. The process consists of
dyeing the warp and the weft threads in conformity with the proposed design
on the fabric. Hand-woven and silk yarn is used for weaving. The Patola
silk sarees are extremely fine and quite expensive and made by very small
master craftsmen at Patan.
Zari Work
The Zari or gold thread embroidery work of Surat is one of the oldest
handicrafts whose origin can be traced back to the Mughal period. Surat
is one of the biggest and important Zari manufacturing centres in India.
The principal types of products are real gold and silver threads, imitation
gold and silver threads, embroidery such as Chalak, Salama, Kangari, Tiki,
Ring and Katori for motifying in the Kinkhab and the Zari border weaving,
laces, caps, turbans, sarees, and blouse pieces. The Tanchoi or silk brocade
is woven on silk cloth and decorated with the designs of birds, animals,
leaves, fruits etc. The cloth is used for costly sarees, blouses and tapestry.
The Kinkhab or the Indian brocade is woven on the silk with gold and silver
threads. Surat is also known for the Kinkhab gold brocades.
Dyeing
Dyeing is a hereditary art. In the past cloth was dyed in colours extracted
from trees and flowers. The Sarkhei suburb of Ahmedabad was one of the
indigo manufacturing and exporting centres. The Bandhani, tie and dye
variety of saree is a very popular women's wear. It involves an intricate
process of tying knots on the fine white fabric, which is dipped in colours.
The hues of deeper shades are used over the previous ones to form the
coloured background of the cloth.
Cloth printing
Cloth printing is a complicated and specialised job. It is done with engraved
wooden blocks and screens. Certain craftsman are doing the work of printing
different varieties which are locally called Chundadi, Patola, Plain Gala,
Lehria, Bandhani, Pomcha, Nagaria. Household utility and decorative materials
such as table cloths, bed covers, curtains, tapestries, hand bags and
carpets are also prepared by this type of printing process. The hand-painted
cloth is available in traditional black, red, maroon and ochre colors
and is also inexpensive. The tie-and-dye fabrics are known all over the
world for their variety and excellent colors. Temple curtains popularly
known as Mat-no-Chandarvo is another type of printing work. The Vahari-Harijan
families of Ahmedabad were engaged in this type of printing. It is prepared
in the old process and depicts goddess Durga seated on the throne or on
the back of a tiger and surrounded by her devotees.
Wood carving
Wood carving is an ancient art of the state which has attained very high
standard of technical skill. Some of the best examples of wood-carvings
are found in temples and houses in many parts of Gujarat. The wood carvers
produce life-like figures of animals, artistic objects of every-day use
such as tea pots, table lamps, stools and toys for children. Mahuva and
Idar are famous for their lacquer toys. Sankheda in Baroda district is
known for its lacquer work. The work is done on country-wood which gives
darker shades. The coating is done with fine lac. Women folk of Saurashtra
prepare idols, toys, ash-trays, toilet-boxes, lamp-stands and flower-pots
from the pulp of rags, banana stumps and bamboos. Artistic Jars, water-pots
and other utility articled are prepared from clay.
Embroidery
Embroidery has been a craft for women. Banni, a small village in the Rann
of Kutch is known for its artistic embroidery work. Small mirrors are
interspersed to lend glitter and charm. The finest type of such embroidery
work with small mirrors is called Abhla-Bharat. When a bride is sent to
her husband's house, she carries with her some pieces of skirts and cholis
exquisitely embroidered with minute details.
Inlay work
Ivory in Gujarat is mostly used in inlay work. Bangles and sandal wood
articles are inlaid with it.
Bead-work
Bead-work is a speciality of Rajkot, Bhavnagar, Jamnagar and Junagadh.
Decorative pieces like torans, chopat, carpets, caps, and belts are some
of the fine articles of bead-work.
Jewellery
The art of making jewellery and precious stone-cutting and processing
is a traditional handicraft of Gujarat. Gold smithy includes filigree-work,
open- wire-work, carving etc. The folk jewellery of excellent designs,
characteristic of each village and each community is a typical art of
Gujarat. The silver craft is a specialty of Kutch, in which light embossing
is done on thin silver plates and is enhanced by etching and scrapping.
Attardanis, Gulsbdanis, Flower-vases, trays, jewellery boxes, powder boxes,
ash trays and cigarette boxes are some of the articles of silver craft.
Agate is a semi-transparent mineral composed of quartz in different colours
and found in river beds. The raw stones are processed by heating, chiselling,
surfacing, polishing and drilling before they are turned into artistic
articles such as ear-rings, necklaces, studs, bowls, and trays. The industry
is located in Cambay.
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