Chettinad is a region in Tamil Nadu with around 76 villages occupied by the Chettiar or Nagarathar people, who were merchant bankers. The Chettiars claim to have originated from the ancient kingdom of Chola, and their present-day origins can be traced back to the 96 villages that once comprised Chettinad. Karaikudi is the largest town in the region, located 400 kilometers south of Chennai.
The Chettiars were traders, weavers, and agriculturists in pre-colonial India. Originally from Kaveripoompattinam, they later settled in the 96 hamlets around Karaikudi. Known as Nagarathar, they excelled in trading salt, jewels, spices, textiles, and jewelry with Southeast Asian countries. The wealth they accumulated was used to build luxurious palaces in their hometown during the 19th century, which still exist today.
Chettinad is known for its 1000 palaces, decorated with materials from East Asia and Europe. The architecture is a mix of Indian and European styles, featuring sit-outs (thinnai), courtyards for social gatherings, and spacious rooms with a distance of at least 100 meters between the front and back doors.
Chettinad is famous for its mansions, heritage resorts, and unique cuisine. The region is also home to nine clan temples built by the Pandya kings, each with its own set of rituals. The Chettiars are known for their culinary skills and their signature seafood dishes.
Chettinad in Tamil Nadu is similar to Shekhawati in Rajasthan. Both regions are known for their wealthy merchant communities and opulent old buildings. Shekhawati is famous for its havelis, while Chettinad is known for its palaces adorned with imported materials.
Main Attractions of Chettinad
Athangudi Palace
Timings: 09:00 AM to 05:00 PM
Entrance fee: Rs.100
Camera & Video Camera fee: No
Athangudi Palace is a beautiful historical building in Athangudi village of Chettinad. It is a well-preserved and popular attraction that showcases the impressive architecture of the region. The palace has 64 large rooms, over 500 stained glass windows, and features tiles imported from Italy and stained glass from Belgium. It offers a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of the Chettiar merchants who originally built it. Today, the palace is open to the public as a heritage monument and is a famous tourist destination. Visitors can admire the grandeur of Chettinad architecture and culture, including the vibrant Athangudi tiles displayed throughout the palace.
Ayyanar Temple
Timings: 09.00 AM to 05.00 PM
Entrance fee: No
Camera & Video Camera Fee: No
The Ayyanar Temple is in the middle of Karaikudi. It is known for its statue of the South Indian Hindu guardian deity Ayyanar, often depicted astride a horse. The temple is smaller than other Ayyanar temples and may have murals from Hindu mythology or stories about Ayyanar on its inner walls. It probably has a courtyard for meetings and ceremonies. Ayyanar is associated with protection, rain, and warding off evil spirits. While some Ayyanar temples may have murals depicting mythology or local history, not all do.
Aayiram Jannal Veedu
The Thousand Window House, also known as Aayiram Jannal Veedu in Tamil, is a large house in Karaikudi, the heart of Chettinad. It was built in 1941 and is spread across 20,000 square feet. The house has many intricate carvings and sculptures on the outside, which reflect the skill and artistry of Chettinad architecture. As the name suggests, the mansion has almost a thousand windows, which allow for natural light and ventilation. The windows are said to be beautifully crafted. Inside, there are 25 spacious rooms and 5 grand halls, which reflect the wealth of the Chettiar people who built it. The mansion was built by a wealthy Chettinad merchant family to showcase their prosperity and status. It exhibits a unique architectural style that combines elements of South Indian, colonial and Islamic architecture. This can be seen in the use of arches, tiled floors and decorative plasterwork. Built by a wealthy Nagarathar merchant family, this mansion is grand with its spacious interiors, detailed design, and high-quality materials.
Unfortunately, the Thousand Window House is currently closed to the public.
Chettinad Palace
The Chettinad Palace, also known as the Kanadukathan Palace, is a grand palace located in the Kanadukathan village of Sivaganga district, 15 km from Karaikudi. It was built in 1912 by Raja Sir Annamalai Chettiar, a prominent member of the Chettinad community. The architectural style of the palace combines Chettinad and European influences, creating a unique and royal structure. The palace is adorned with ornate sculptures, arches, and colorful tiles, which took seven years to complete due to the many decorative elements. While the interior of the Chettinad Palace is not open to the general public, tourists can still enjoy its beautiful exterior. Located in a serene environment with gentle palm trees, the serene beauty of the palace attracts photographers and tourists.
Thirumayam Fort
Timings: 10.00 AM to 05.00 PM
Entrance fee: Rs.300 for foreigners & Rs.10 for Indians
Camera fee: free
Video Camera fee: Rs.25
The Thirumayam Fort is a historical landmark in the town of Thirumayam, Tamil Nadu, constructed in 1687. Built strategically atop a rocky mountaintop, it played a significant role in the Polygar Wars between the British East India Company and local leaders. It underwent major modifications by the Archaeological Survey of India in 2012 and is known locally as Oomayan Kottai. The fort is a major tourist destination with three entrances, a Shiva cave, and offers panoramic views of the surrounding area.
Pillayarpatti Temple
Pillayarpatti Temple, also known as Karpaga Vinayagar Temple, is a 7th-century cave sanctuary. It is located in Pillayarpatti village in Sivaganga district, about 15 kilometers from Karaikudi. The temple is dedicated to Karpaka Vinayagar (Ganesha) and has a primary sanctuary built into the side of a hill. The rock carvings inside the cave temple include Ganesha, a Shiva linga, and a carving that has been linked to Ardhanarishvara, Harihara, or an early ruler. The temple is known for its unique sculptures and has a six-foot-tall statue of Lord Ganesha known as Karpaga Vinayagar. The temple complex has over 15 inscriptions that help determine its age. The temple’s main festival, Vinayagar Chaturthi, is celebrated in August and September. Additionally, the temple has special pujas on Sankat Hara Chaturthi every month. Unlike other Ganesha temples, it also has shrines for Shiva Linga, Ardhanarishvara, Harihara, and three deities: Sivagami Amman, Vadamalar Mangaiamman, and Soundara Nayagiamman.
Activities in Chettinad
Chettinad offers a wide range of activities for visitors to enjoy. From exploring the unique architecture of the Chettinad mansions to indulging in the rich culinary heritage of the region, there is something for everyone.
Bullock Cart Ride
Some hotels in Chettinad can offer bullock cart rides to visitors. Bullock cart rides are a traditional and relaxing way to see the villages and landscapes of Chettinad. These slow-moving carts, pulled by a pair of oxen, provide a unique opportunity to see the architecture, beautiful landscapes, and rural lifestyle of the region. Bullock cart rides allow you to enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells of the village in comfort. Bullock carts are a traditional mode of transportation in Chettinad, and riding on them is a great way to learn about the local culture. In some parts of Chettinad, bullock carts are still used for transportation, carrying anything from people to goods.
Cooking Demo
Some Chettinad hotels offer cooking demonstrations for their guests. These demonstrations are not as practical as cooking workshops, but are still a great way to learn about Chettinad cuisine and see how food is made. Expert chefs teach at the workshops, which cover ingredients, methods, and recipes for Chettinad cuisine. The workshops often include a visit to the local market to see the fresh produce used in Chettinad cuisine. Additionally, live cooking demonstrations are provided as part of the dining experience, allowing guests to see Chettinad cooking skills up close and learn about the different spices used. Chettinad specialties include aromatic curries like Chettinad chicken, seafood dishes like meen kulambu (fish gravy), and vegetarian dishes like vazhaipoo vadai (banana flower fritters).
Antique Market Visit
Visiting the antique market in Karaikudi is a unique experience. You will find a charming little lane, filled with shops, offering a wide range of treasures to be discovered. From European curiosities and lamps to Indian brass and bronze statues, the market has a vibrant ambiance that contrasts the quiet Chettinad homes. It is a treasure hunter’s paradise, where one can find everything from European curiosities, lamps, Indian brass, bronze statues, Burma teakwood doors from Chettinad mansions, timeless Chettinad furniture, handwoven cotton and silk saris, Athangudi tiles known for their geometric patterns and vibrant colours. For those who want to bring a piece of the rich history and culture of Chettinad into their homes, this market is a gold mine.
Athangudi Handmade Tile Factory
Athangudi tiles are a popular choice for those who want a unique and attractive way to bring tradition into their home. These handmade tiles are made in Athangudi, a village in the Chettinad district. Although there is no information about any one large-scale factory, the community is home to various workshops and family-run businesses that continue this tradition. The process of making these classic and elegant tiles involves a base layer of coarse sand and concrete, colored powders, and intricate designs. After the design is complete, the surface is smoothed and polished to a shine. Each Athangudi tile is a unique work of art as the entire process is done by hand. Known for their durability and resistance to fading, Athangudi tiles are available in a wide range of colors and designs, making them an excellent choice for home decor projects.
How to Reach Chettinad
By Air: You can reach the nearest airport, Madurai International Airport (IXM), which is 100 km away. Madurai Airport is connected to many cities in India including Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, and Delhi. There are also flights to international destinations like Dubai, Singapore and Colombo. The second nearest airport is Trichy International Airport (TRZ), which is 110 km away and has flights to major cities in India. There are also flights to some international destinations like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai, and Colombo.
By Train: Chettinad has a railway station, Chettinad Railway Station (CDMR). The main station in the region is Karaikudi Junction (KRD), which connects Chettinad to major cities and towns in Tamil Nadu and neighboring states.
By Road: Chettinad has good road connectivity to various cities in Tamil Nadu. Karaikudi, the largest city in Chettinad, serves as a major transport hub. National Highways 45 and 210 connect Karaikudi to Madurai, Trichy, Thanjavur, and Chennai.
Conclusion
Exploring Chettinad is truly a heritage journey that takes you back to a bygone era of splendor and grandeur. The region’s stunning architecture, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality make it a must-visit destination for history and architecture enthusiasts. While there are challenges in preserving Chettinad architecture, there are also concerted efforts being made to restore and revive these architectural treasures. It is a collective responsibility to ensure that the architectural heritage of Chettinad is preserved for future generations.
So, pack your bags and set out on a journey to Chettinad, where history, culture, and architecture blend together in a mesmerizing blend.
